In Memoriam: Joël Robuchon
Gault et Millau's 1990 “Chef of the Century” – to a great star of French cuisine.
Joël Robuchon, named Gault & Millau “Chef of the Century” in 1990, passed away on August 6 at the age of 73.
Throughout the history of our guide, we shared many memorable meals at his table – meals that earned him numerous distinctions, including “Best Meal of the Year” in our 1983 edition. Here is the review we published at the time, just a few months after he had taken over Jamin on rue de Longchamp. Back then one ate there for around 300 francs à la carte, the “little” menu was priced at 110 francs, and we awarded him 18/20 (3 toques at the time):
Everyone knows that Joël Robuchon is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (1976), but only insiders, looking at the illustration on his menu card (a pensive young man with his staff; far off, a cathedral beneath a red sun), will understand that he is also a Compagnon du Tour de France – a secret yet illustrious and ancient brotherhood within which, after long and rugged journeys, Robuchon acquired, among other things, a sense of research, of humility, of reflection. The culmination, at the former Jamin, of an already long, prudent and modest career – despite a thousand honors, diplomas and high responsibilities – is expressed in a cuisine that is utterly mastered, sovereign.
Highly inventive and changing with the seasons, this cuisine immediately places itself at the edge of four toques through its supreme refinement, the balance of flavors, the superior choice of products, the sauces that neither conceal nor heighten but reveal and marry, the extreme lightness of the preparations, the ravishing presentation, and a generosity so rare in nouvelle cuisine. A fairly short menu offers a full range of this talent, but it changes month by month, and you will discover what we have not yet tasted but will adore. No doubt it will keep the pan-fried langoustines with vegetables, the cream of shellfish in a tureen, the red mullet fillets with thyme flower, the springtime skate cheeks, the salt-crust roasted lamb, the young rabbit with cabbage and admirable potato purée, the honeyed duckling, the spiced chicken, the lime crêpes – marvelous dishes that would secure the reputations of ten great cooks.
The service, led by J.-J. Clément, an exceptional maître d'hôtel, is perfect; the décor of beige walls and green plants is intimate; the bill rather heavy (but the little menu is exquisite and the modest wines have made it onto the grand list): happiness is guaranteed.
