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for-the-chefs---with-the-chefs-~Memories of Gault et Millau with the Top Chefs~-vol-2] Chef Seizo Mikuni
Gault et Millau, the French gourmet guide, was launched in 1972 at the height of the "Nouvelle Cuisine" trend in France, and its founders, Henri Gault and Christian Millau, established their name in the French culinary world by helping to launch a major movement in the French culinary world. The founders of the magazine, Henri Gault and Christian Millot, helped to launch a major movement in the French culinary world and established their name in the French gourmet world. As times change, and the culinary world continues to swell and change on a daily basis, what role does "Gault et Millau" play in contemporary Japan? We asked the top chefs about their memories and episodes related to "Gault et Millau.
The second installment, continuing from the previous installment, features Chef Seizo Mikuni of the Hôtel de Mikuni.
In this second part of the series, Chef Mikuni, who is in charge of the Yotsuya main restaurant as well as other restaurants from Sapporo to Nagoya, shares with us his current activities and a message for young chefs.
To read the first part of the interview, please clickhere⇒https://jp.gaultmillau.com/news/forthechefs_withthechefs_vol1_mikunichef
Gault et Millau Japon editorial department (hereinafter referred to as "GM staff"): Chef Mikuni is in charge of the Yotsuya branch as well as other directly managed restaurants and business partner restaurants nationwide, isn't he?
Chef Seizo Mikuni (Chef Mikuni): Thankfully, Yotsuya is crowded with many customers every day, both on weekdays and weekends. I myself am involved in all the cooking here, but this is not the case for restaurants located far away. But we have a head chef who has the ability to explore, so I often teach them Mikuni's philosophy and leave it to them.
GM Staff: The appeal of Mikuni's cuisine is that it can be enjoyed with ingredients from different regions, such as Sapporo, Kyoto, Shimizu, Karuizawa, Nagoya, and so on.
Chef Mikuni： We ask our chefs to visit the production areas of the ingredients and create menus based on those ingredients. This is Cuisine Naturelle's concept of making the most of the ingredients themselves. I will confirm this at the end.
GM Staff: Chef Mikuni is also a standard-bearer for succession planning in French cuisine in Japan, as he received our "Transmission Award" in 2017.
Chef Mikuni: In the last 10 years, we have returned to the classics. As I mentioned earlier (see Part I), the 1970s was a time when the French culinary world was divided between the classics and the nouvelle, and I came back to Japan having learned both from Europe. At that time, the restaurant industry in Japan was a place where water came from the tap and there was no such thing as amuse-bouche or avant-dessert. So, while my cuisine was considered avant-garde when I returned to Japan, I was sometimes criticized for my understanding of the classics.
GM Staff: So the style that everyone knows today as "French cuisine" was pioneered through trial and error by pioneers such as Chef Mikuni?
Chef Mikuni： But avant-garde alone does not nurture people. Besides, it takes a lot of energy to create something new when there is no answer. While you are young and energetic, you should do everything you can think of, such as taking on challenges and traditions, but it will be difficult to continue doing so for the rest of your life. As I mentioned earlier, my return to classical music 10 years ago was also to nurture people.
The good thing about classical music, in my opinion, is that it is well defined,
It is possible to pass on techniques through lusettes.
I think this method of passing on russets is particularly suitable for Japanese chefs.
Chef Seizo Mikuni
GM Chief: For Chef Mikuni, 10 years is the end of a cycle.
Chef Mikuni： Yes, I feel that a mode changes in 10 years. The avant-garde, the new, can only maintain its brilliance for 10 years. I will never forget what Ferran Adrià of El Bulli said when he closed that legendary restaurant.
GM Staff: What was it?
Chef Mikuni: He said, "I'm tired. That is an undeniable fact. After 10 years of doing so many things, any chef gets tired. The times demand something new and avant-garde, and there is a part of us that appreciates it, which makes us aware of trends. However, I think that if you don't understand the classics, you will quickly reach a limit in your ability to think out of the box. The good thing about the classics, in my opinion, is that there are proper rules and it is possible to pass on techniques through lusettes. I think the method of passing on russets is particularly suitable for Japanese chefs.
GM Chief: It is a "classic" to pass on and leave behind to the new generation. By the way, what do you usually have for breakfast?
Chef Mikuni： Basically, it is a one-soup, three-course breakfast. I eat rice, grilled fish such as salmon, miso soup, and salted sea squirt.
GM Staff: Is there any food that you "can't do without" every day?
Chef Mikuni：Sashimi. I eat it every day!
GM Staff: Finally, do you have a message for young chefs?
Chef Mikuni： It is important to master your own cuisine, but I would like you to think about continuing to run a maison. Even if you are exhausted after running as fast as you can, the path of a chef does not end there. Classical music has the power to nurture people. It is possible to nurture people and maisons while keeping the classics in mind and taking on new challenges. For example, the inheritance of lusciousness that I mentioned earlier. I feel that there are many chefs in Japan who have this ability.
GM Chief & Staff: Thank you very much for taking time out of your busy schedule today to talk with us.
(Completed)
April 5, 2019 at Hôtel de Mikuni
Reporting and photography by Gault et Millau Japon editorial department
Supported by Societe Mikuni Co.
