Gastronomy event "GENUSS-MESSE" in Vienna with the participation of Japan's representative, Chef Keiko Kuwakino = Part 2
In September, Chef Keiko Kuwakino of Satoyama Jucho - Sanae Feast - represented Japan at "Genuss-Messe" organized by Gault et Millau Austria. In this two-part series, food writer Shifumi Eto will tell you about the event and her encounters with people and foodstuffs during her stay.
As reported in the first part of this report, Keiko Kuwakino of "Satoyama Jucho" was the only Asian representative invited to the "Genuss-Messe" gastronomy event held in Vienna, Austria (she received the "Terroir Award" in "Go e Mijo Japan 2022"). She created two dishes, "Austrian Fruit Tofu with Sesame" and "Vegetable with Sesame," which were praised by many guests for being friendly to both the human body and the environment, both of which are in demand today.
Behind Ms. Kuwakino's success was the warm support of four key persons.
In the second part of this report, we will tell you about the behind-the-scenes story.
The first key person is Paul Ivic, owner-chef of the restaurant "TIAN" in Vienna.
TIAN" features a vegan menu with plenty of Austrian vegetables, and Paul is currently using kombucha and other plant-based fermented foods with a strong sour taste reminiscent of Scandinavian flavors in both his dishes and paired drinks. He is also very interested in foods. Mr. Kuwakino is a specialist in learning from local elders and passing on fermented and preserved foods as "wisdom for survival," so to speak, which have been made for a long time to survive the long winter in deep snowy Niigata. As chefs pursuing two common themes of "vegetables" and "fermentation," we quickly became friends, transcending the differences between Western and Eastern cultures.
Paul selected vegetables with strong flavors and aromas that could be the star of a dish, without feeling that the plants alone were not enough. The organic vegetables and herbs grown by their creator were as close as possible to what Mr. Kuwakino had envisioned.
In addition, the day before the event, we were allowed to use the kitchen of Paul's restaurant, which is fully equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, for preparation, making it Kuwakino-san's home in Vienna.
The second key person was Paul's recommended organic farmer, Die Beetwirtschaft.
The family-run farm is a 50-minute drive from the center of Vienna. Mr. Kuwakino was very satisfied with the freshly picked vegetables and herbs, which included soft bitter kale, many herbs, and fragrant cilantro, all of which he picked by hand while observing the condition of each one. I will turn these vegetables into a dish that everyone in Austria will enjoy," he said. True to his words, the "Vegetables with Sesame Seeds" was a platter full of fresh greens, the aroma and texture of which could be enjoyed to the fullest.
The third key person was Philip Rachinger, owner-chef of the auberge "Muhltalhof.
It is a two and a half hour drive west from the city of Vienna, passing through Linz. Although it is located in the region of Unterberg, it has become a venue for gastronomy events involving the world, attracting star chefs and actively promoting the charm of the region with an eye to the world.
If Paul of the aforementioned "TIAN" shares two themes with Kuwakino-san, "vegetables" and "fermentation," he and Philippe-san share "local gastronomy" and "the bounty of the land. We were treated to a generous portion of Salzburg's bounty, including more than 10 different kinds of colorful and flavorful tomatoes grown by a nearby farmer with high aspirations, and mushrooms harvested in the forest that are in season right now.
The kindness and warmth of the people I met in Austria was so great that I don't know how to repay them. I don't know how to repay them. What I can do is to cook, so I will put everyone's feelings into my cooking," Kuwakino said.
The fourth key person who came along as Kuwakino's right-hand man was Yuji Sasaki, head chef of "Hakone Honbako. Mr. Sasaki is nicknamed the "red bread chef.
Even during the hard work of stocking, preparing, and cooking, he moves lightly in his trademark red pants, always calmly creating an environment that facilitates Kuwakino's movement, and finishing his dishes quickly and beautifully. His high level of technical skill also attracted the attention of many people.
Genouse-Messe" is a food festival where many people can enjoy the world's best "haute cuisine. I hope such an event that can make many foodies happy will be held in Japan someday.
Photo and text by Shifumi Eto
